Maryport circa 1815 

William Russell is the second great uncle of T. Alan Russell.  William was the 3rd son out of the eight children of Joseph Turner Russell (1793-1873) and Mary F. Shevils (1795-1879).  William Russell married Rachel Nixon and they had three sons named Henry Steel (1853-1858), Palmer (1857-1868), and William Henry (1860-1868).  William was an older brother to Captain Turner Russell.

In May 1896, William celebrated 50 years of work at the Refuge Sunday School held in the old Court House. On this occasion he delivered a lecture entitled "Maryport in 1832". The entire lecture has been transcribed below. The original transcript can be found in the Carlisle Record Office in the Dr. J. W. Cravens collection.

In his Notes, hand-written in beautiful copperplate script, William Russell (1827-1907) says of Maryport:

There are few Englishmen who are not proud of the country of their birth, and very few who do not manifest in some way or other an interest in all that pertains to the prosperity of the town in which they were born. Being a Maryport man, I do take a deep interest in everything that tends to its advancement as a town. Never in its history could anyone boast of it possessing much wealth, but we can boast of it being the birthplace of many enterprising men who have risen to positions of independence and influence in the world, many of them born of poor, but honest hard-working parents. They have made their mark in the world, and, their names will live in the memory of many after they are dead, because of their good deeds in benefitting their fellow men.

We have men living in the town now who have risen from very humble parentage, to positions of independence and influence. Also a number in command of some of the finest steamships belonging to our mercantile navy and many other holden situations of responsibility on shore.

This town was the birthplace of the late Capt Harrison, the commander of the "Great Eastern" when built and for many years after the largest vessel in the world, he was drowned at Southhampton. To show the respect to his memory the inhabitance of this town subscribed for and erected a monument which you can see in our cemetery. We look with pride to men like the late Mr. T. H. Ismay, the founder and respected Chairman of the White Star Line which is one of the finest shipping companys in the world. Mr. Ismay kindly remembered the poor aged people of Maryport, the town of his birth. Also the aged marriners of Liverpool the town where he commenced and carried on his business.

Also the late Philip Nelson, Ship Owner. And a useful member of Liverpool Dock Board and has was held in high esteem by the leading men of Liverpool in the shipping circle.

Thomas English, son of a poor widow, after serving his apprenticeship as joiner and cabinet maker, went out to Adelaide by perseverance rose step by step until he was thrice elected mayor of his adopted town. Many others could be named all the above known personally to the writer with the exception of Capt. Harrison. My paper is not intended to deal with the men of Maryport but the town, what I have said by way of introduction. I trust may in some way lead the young people of our town to aim at some thing higher than their present position and as far as they can try and imitate those men who have done so much by their perserverance and business quality’s to help on the trade and commerce of this great nation.

Maryport in the year 1832, the year that has always been known as the year of the first cholera, which carried away a great number of inhabitance, was a small town numbering from three to four thousand. The first death was a woman named Dolie in the lower part Kirkby Street. Crosby Street United Presbyterian Church was built in the year 1831. This congregations split from the Scotch Church John Street. After the split they worshiped in a room in the Old Factory, now Messrs. Carr and Co Flower Mill. Until Crosby Street Church was built there was no other building on the east side of this church. The Market Square being built on one corner of the field. The hedge of the field formed one side of Kirkby Street and joined the old portion of St. Marys Church wall. A road running from Kirkby Street (commonly known by Chapel Brow) in front of the St Mary’s Church to the place where the inhabitance got water for washing. Water for tea and drinking had to be got from pumps and wells by paying a yearly sum if you had not one of your own. There was a road from the church door across the Church Green to the brewery corner. The front portion of the St. May’s burial ground was called the Church Green before it was enclosed as a burrial ground. The Green extended from the face to the house above Mr Reeds Sailor and Draper shop in Wood Street and in a line from there to the last house on the south west side of Kirkby Street.

The traveling shows, Mountebanks and Caravans used to perform on the Green, it was also a playground for the young folk belonging the town. The enclosing of the Green for a burrial ground would be about the year 1835. ( I cannot just be correct about this date). Some little time after, buildings was erected in what we know as Church Street also at the lower end of Wood Street. Kirkby Street at this date was a one sided street as far as Crosby Street. Many of the houses being flats access to the upper rooms by stone stairs on the outside of the houses. There were several weaving shops for sail cloth in this street. Two of these was afterward used for day schools where some of the lad’s belonging to the town got their education. Where the Catholic Chapel now stands was a garden enclosed by high stone walls entrance by a flight of stone steps from Kirkby Street. The entrance to Camp Road was called New Road used to be where Mr. Craig lives with a large gate at the entrance of the Road and a style at the left hand side of the gate for people to go through. On other side of the road there was Market Gardens. It was the custom for the inhabitants to frequent these gardens on Sunday afternoon during the Furite Season. Where I live was the entrance to the garden on that side of the road when the Market Square was laid out. It was soon taken up by buildings. Eaglesfield Street was opened out into Church Street. After the Senhouse Arms Hotel was built there was a daily coach which run between Carlisle and Whitehaven made this hotel its head quarters.

I remember when the Old Court House was opened for trials. What a number of people used to be watching the policeman bringing the poor fellows from the lockup to the place of trial. Our lockup was built into the side of the back Brow a sad damp place to put any human being into.

The Baptist Chapel High Street was built in the year 1834. Previous to the building of this Chapel the congregation worshiped in the top rooms over the shops in Senhouse Street now occupied by Mssrs. Brown Watch Makers and Kelly picture frame maker. Access to the meeting place was by a flight of wooden stairs behind the shops.

In the year 1837, St Marys Church was enlarged by building the north east end to it of a crusifix style. Before the enlarging it was a very small place of worship given you the idea of a small countery church with its whitewashed walls and a short square tower simular in shape to Dearham Church. The present tower was built about the year 1844. During the enlargement of St Mary’s Church, the congregation worshiped in the old factory in the same room as the Presbyterians had occupied. It was in the on the second floor of the building. The church people held their day and Sunday schools in the same room.

The boys and girls belonging the town got their schooling at this school for one penney per week. It was a great boon to the working class. The scholars had to meet in the school every Sunday morning and walk in procession to St Marys Church for the morning service. When the national schools in Eaglesfield St. was built and ready they taught the school in the new building.

The Primitive Methodist first chapel stood on the same ground as their present one only of a different construction, the same in style as the Ellenborough Chapel side to the street. It was built in the year 1839. Before the building of this chapel, the congregation worshiped in one of the school rooms in Kirkby St. The present chapel was built in 1870.

In the year 1842 the Roman Catholics of this town procured the Garden I spoke about in the early part of this paper at the corner opposit the Presbyterian Church for the errection of a place of worship. For many years past they had been worshiping in the Old Bethel at the foot of the Shipping Brow.

The Old Wesleyan Chapel is still standing in Well Lane now used as a common lodgin house. Where Christ Church stands was called Laisey Hill. People used to congregate here when not working to play at marbles or pitch and toss, or when there was any lectures or preaching services out side they were always held on Laisey Hill.

Where our post office is used to be Mr Ritson’s Weaving Shop before it was burned down. Our post office has been in different parts of the town before the present one was built. Where the Anthaeum is there used to be a blacksmith shop and a nailer shop and some small houses in Catherine Street with a ship bread baker shop at the opposit corner in Catherine Street.

The largest hall we had in town before the Anthaeum was built was the Odd Fellows Hall in Eaglesfield Street. Built by the members of the first Odd Fellows Club, afterwards sold and until now being used as the Free Mason Hall. The next largest was the old Court House on Fleming Square.

The York City and District Bank stands on a site that was considered a very objectionable property in the center of the town. On the High Street side there was a blacksmith shop in Senhouse Street. There was a large yard where pigs were kept. Also a barber shop and public bake house. It was no wonder there was a bad smell in the bank, being built on such a dirty place.

There is a rather amusing story told about the old barber that practiced his calling in this property. A vessel had arrived from a forign port, one of her crew had been on the spree and spent his money. One morning after he had come round a bit he commenced to turn out his pockets, and just found one half penny. He thought he would feel better if he had a wash and a shave. Seeing old Fisher the barber shop open he turned in there and enquired if he would shave him for the half penney. The old man told him that one penney was his charge, poor Jack told him that he had been on the spree, and that he had just the half penney left. The old man had pity on him and would shave him for the half penney. During the operation the pigs in the yard commenced to screem, the old barber enquired of Jack what is to do with the pigs this morning they are making such noise. I don’t know replyed Jack unless they are getting a half penney shave.

Where the other banks are there were fairly good shops for the size of the town. Where Mssrs. Temple and Adair Shops are was a plot of very dirty property, a bread bakers shop and a large yard were pigs were kept. The corner of John St. and High Street, Mr. Leslie Shop and the one next to it in John Street was the site of two or three small houses one storey high. The people that lived in them made a living by bringing coals with donkey from the colliery in the District, the donkeys living under the same roof, only they had their own apartments.

There was other dirty places in Crosby Street where Mssrs Edwards and Wharton shops are now was very dirty yards. Where Mssrs, Hardy, Jones shops are used to be the stabling for the Globe Inn; the loft above the stabling was where the Traveling Play Actors used to perform the entrance to the play house from Wood Street where the chip potatoes shop now is. I might mention many other parts of the town where great improvement have been made. I may just say that all our older shops have either been rebuilt or renovated with the exception of Mr. Sparks shop in Crosby Street. In style it just remains just as it was when I first knew it.

There was no houses in Crosby Street higher up than Queen Street. You will have heard the Shipping Brow called the Old Market Brow. The market used to be held there until Gills Market was opened then the butter , eggs, and butchers meat was sold inside of it. The potatoes Carls still had their stand in High St. As soon as our present Market Square was completed and opened as a market the other places had to give way to it . Only the Crosby Street market continued to some extent as at present.

Maryport was lighted with gas before our wealthier neighbouring town Workington. I now come to our harbor it was a very narrow place with the river Ellen flowing through it. What we now call the North Harbour used to be called the New Harbour. There was no swing bridge as we have now accross at the foot of the Shipping Brow. There was a foot bridge accross the river by paper mill green to the opposit bank.

In the year 1833 two gentlemen came to this town by coach one about 60 years old the other about 22. After having had refreshment at one of inns they took a walk to see the town and harbour. When they got as far a Paper Mill Green, they had a look at the old wooden bridge with its numberless legs and props a Scotchman coming over the bridge at the time from his work. The young gentlemen wishing to show off a little accosted him with do you know how build this bridge. Aye bossa weal answered the Scote. Was he a gingerbread manufacturer continued the young man. Eh, no, answered Sandy are ye seeking orders in that line. The young gentleman was done at the smart reply of the scotchman. The old gentleman burst into a fit of laughter and gave the man a ___ and gave the following advice to his fellow traveler. The next time you want to show off your wit be sure you don’t mistake your man.

When the tide was out the horses and carts crossed the river a little above the bridge. When the tide was in they had to go round by Meal Lot Road that is now better known by the Goods and Passenger Station Road and comes into the town by Wood Street. That was the only enterance into town on that side. Our Harbour used to be called by the Workington and Whitehaven seamen a Gutter, on account of it being so narrow.

The first Dock we had built is what is now used as the Elizabeth Dock Basin. It was called Gambles Dock after the first vessel that entered it. The vessel was built on Mr. Wood's Ship Building Yard. Launched and taken right to the dock, she was brig rigged, having been masted on the yard. She had flags flying from trucks to deck, and a Band of Music on board playing. On entering the dock all her yards were manned, the guns firing, the music playing, the people hurrying as the gallant vessel entered the Dock. This was a red letter day for the town and Harbour of Maryport.

At the head of the dock was an incline where vessels could lay to get repaired or cleaned on the payment of one half penney per ton on leg tonage. The Lord of the Manor, the late Mr. Senhouse’s grandfather gave the land for the dock free of charge. The opening of the dock would be about 1830 if my memory serves me right. We had a good coal, timber and cattle trade to this port. It was imusing sight to see them discharging cattle from the vessels at the corner of the old harbour oppsit Christ Church, there was a bank run from the corner to near the middle of the harbour. The cattle vessels laid opposit to this bank. Each vessel used to have a waist board which could be removed when required. They removed the cattle from the vessel hold by a winch and a rope strop round their bodies, laid them on deck, removed the strop rolled them off the vessel's deck into the water. When they arose the serfus they had a look about them and then swam to the bank, the Bullock Men being there to look after them. I have seen as many as four vessels discharging cattle at one time.

The spring of the year used to be a very busy time, when the vessels was fitting out for North America and Arkangle. Every trade was busy. There was no sending out of the town for goods. Everyone was anxious to spend their money in the town, and let their own townspeople have the full benefit. Would that it was more so today. How can we expect our tradesmen to pay their large rents and rates and our people going out of the town for their goods. Where you make the money there you ought to spend it. If we wish our town to prosper in the future as it has done in the past, we must encourage our own tradesmen by spending our money with them.

Where the Elizabeth Dock is and right away to the Maryport Iron Works together with that portion of the railway from Huttons Place to the Bent Hills. It was part of Windmill Farm. The farm house stood where Ellenborough Place is now and the Old Windmill behind the farm house which was only a one storey house the stabling and at the end of th house the old windmill being used as a grainery. In frount towards the Ellen there is the old foundations of Glass Works now covered by the railway. Behind the cemented houses at Ellenborough Place was the Pope Works doing a good business.

At the end of Mr. Walters Ship Yard there was a Pot Mill. There used to be four shipbuilding yards employing a large number of men and boys. The two larger yards of Mssr Woods and Ritson built large vessels for the times. Mssrs Peat and Middleton did not employ so many men and boys as the larger yards did. They built smaller vessels. The vessels built here were considered second to none for strength and durability. Mr T. H. Ismay's father was foreman of Mr Middleton's yard. When he married (Miss Sealby). Soon after he commenced business as a shipbroker. He was the first shipbroker in Maryport. Soon after he added to his business that of ship owner.

The first railway we had in West Cumberland was the Maryport and Carlisle. I distinctly remember the day when the first three sods was cut. There was a procession of gentlemen and workmen, the latter carrying spades over their shoulders, accompanied by a band of music. Starting from the house on Catherine Street. Next to Mr. Jos Ross Shop was the company’s temporary office. After walking through a few streets they went to a field known by the name of Fir Tree Gath. On the right hand side of the bridge leading to Netherton. All this land is very much altered since the construction of the railway. In this field three sod’s was cut by Maryport gentlemen, by Mssrs John Wood, Robert Ritson and Dr. Teay (?). There were several barrels of ale on the ground. The thirsty ones would not allow time to have them tapped in the ordinary way, they put some of them on end and broke the ends in and bailed it out in anything convenient. It was a rough time with the drunken men going about the streets.

The first engine that run on the line belonging to the company was built at Lowca Foundry. It was called the Ellen after the river. It was towed from Lowca on a timber raft and landed on the incline at the head of Gambles Dock. It had first and second compartments. The first coal waggons was built in a yard in Crosby Street where the brick houses now stand between Catherine Street and Queen Street. The first coals that was brought down the line was from Brayton Domain and Gilcrux Colliery. Twenty waggons from each colliery, the engine had to make two trips, twenty each time.

The two first vessels that took on board the first coals brought by rail was the Fly of Harrington and the Betsy of Maryport. The Betsy was my father's vessel. Each vessel flying a flag with the name of the Colliery.

This end of the line was worked long before the line was through to Carlisle, on account of the coal traffic. The line was through to Aspatria about 1840. Before the railway was opened, coals was shipped by carts from all the collierys, from Broughton Moor.  Coals had to be carts as their collierys laid in another direction. Our quay used to represent a very busy appearance, with such a number of horses and carts being engaged in this trade. The coal carts had to come through Senhouse Street and down the Shipping Brow and the same way back. As each cart was emptied into the vessel the cartman received a token from the Mate of the vessel, and got pay at the Colliery Office according to the number of tokens he had.

Many of our vessels in the timber trade used to carry passengers to North America from Cork, Sligo and Belfast. Vessels over a certain tonnage had to carry a doctor. An occasional vessel carried passengers from Maryport. At this date there was no large Atlantic Liners sailing; neither from the Mersey nor the Clyde, as there is today. What a change. Instead of having a 40 days passage or upwards, it can be made in under 6 days now.

I could have mentioned many other improvements and have contrasted its present condition with what it was before the outbreak of cholera in the year 1832, when so many of the inhabitants died. Today the town is sewered. We have a plentyful supply of good water, leaving no excuse for having either dirty houses or dirty clothes, nor even dirty persons. The tower is well situated for being a healthy town.

We have a Promenade second to none in the County. If you are wishful, any clear evening you can see the prettiest sunset that can be seen in any part of this England of ours. We have now docks the envy of the neighbouring ports, who a few years ago spoke of our harbour being a gutter. We can now berth vessels in our docks carrying from 4,000 to 6,000 tons of cargo. I knew the Harbour when a little vessel of 68 tons burden could not leave the port during neap tides for want of water.

I should say that the town possesses more wealth now than ever it possessed at any time in its history. And now in conclusion let me say to all young people: never let the enterprying spirit of your forefathers die out. Retain that spirit amongst you and try and retain the proud name the town has born in the past. The spirited little town on the Solway.